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Where the Caribou Are Reindeer

An unrelenting craving for orange juice led me directly to the grocery store in Ammarnäs where I purchased an entire half gallon.  I quickly discovered that the hankering was satisfied after only a cup of the elixir but I wasn't going to waste any!  So I packed it out. I also bought a little more of…
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The Last Lake Crossing

There didn't seem to be any way to know if the row boats would be at the final lake crossing.  In Kvikkjokk, Björn had even tried to call friends further south to find out but they weren't sure either.  The boats get mysteriously helicoptered out every fall, sometimes as early as mid-September and it was already…
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Fog in the Delta

Björn met Claudia, John, and I at the Fjällstation at 8 AM.  We walked down to the delta together.  Björn pointed out interesting sights along the way including his cabin and potato patch on the other side of a river, a towering raspberry bush (the largest I've ever seen!), and a poisonous plant that I…
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To the Delta

I snuck out of camp at first light.  Unfortunately, the only spot to set my tarp up the night before had been over dry leaves, so it was difficult to pack up without making a complete racket.  I woke my neighbors, the two bankers from Stockholm.  I had a feeling they weren't planning on rising…
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